
Disadvantages of manual lenses?
Slower, heavier. Difficult to focus without special focusing screens, if even available. Constantly changing lenses introduces more dust on your sensor
When I was building my collection of older prime lenses, I used the web as my first research. There is plenty of opinion out there, but it is fragmented, divided, and often conflicted. This is the site I would like to have seen back then.
I have used/do use the lenses listed here. Inevitably, I reach for certain lenses time and again when packing a bag - others are kept for when I'm looking for a particular effect.
My evaluations are based on practical outcomes, not test charts. Some lenses perform fine in a controlled environment but never give satisfactory results in the field. Price is an important factor, and some lenses are excluded because their reputations precede them and they are valued accordingly. I have an old friend who an optical designer. He says lens design, not condition, governs its performance, so forget about minor dust, cleaning marks, coating loss.
In time I may provide some examples of the lenses in use, should there be enough demand. Contact me here if you have anything you would like to contribute.
One final caveat, if I want really sharp pictures for professional use or large reproduction, I use medium format cameras and an independent digital back. DSLRs offer portability and convenience, not top quality - even today.
Why use old manual prime lenses?
I don't want to carry thousands of pounds worth of lenses around, and non-L Canon lenses seem fragile. Older primes offer a wide variety of qualities, sometimes for the price of a take-away meal.
Standards applied to lens evaluation
I believe chromatic aberrations to be equally important to sharpness. Generally assessments are given for f/8, with three bands from A= very sharp/ little CA, to C = soft/large CA, in the order: sharp/CA.
Lens brands not considered for various reasons: Hanimex, Prinz Galaxy, Optomax, Cosina, Sun, Soligor, Tokina, Photax, Paragon. Some may be produce acceptable results, but prejudice and trying to keep the field manageable keeps them out. For reasons of cost, Carl Zeiss (both Jena and the rarer western M42 mounts) are not considered. They are all good, no doubt. Pentax lenses vary enormously in price. See separate note below.
Revuenon 35mm f/2.8 I'm not a big user of wide angles but paid a few quid for a beaten up copy of this lens. The back element is badly damaged but it still produces sharp, if slightly flat, images. My copy flares terribly but I would buy another copy. Performance: A-/B.
Mamiya Sekor C 35mm f/3.5 (645 lens) Used on medium format, but adapters are available for Canon eos. Not as sharp as the Pentax 28mm, but apparently the N version is better. Performance: B/A.
Pentax Takumar 50mm f/1.4 My copy is yellowed as are many, and wide open it produces soft haloes. Beautiful, and warm. Stopped down it's normally sharp. Rear element mount interferes with the 5D mirror, see note below. Performance: A/A.
Pentax SMC-M 100mm f/2.8 K mount lens that produced great results on a small sensor Canon but didn't suit the 5D, so had to go. A better lens than the Fuji non. Performance: A/A-.
Fujinon 100mm f/2.8 This is small, light and produces reasonably crisp results across the whole frame even wide open, when it does suffer from ghosting in the highlights. Fujinons have a lug which needs re moving from the aperture ring that needs filing down. Performance:A-/B.
Pentacon 500mm f/5.6 Lenses this long, and to be fair that also goes for 300s, depend for their performance more on atmospheric conditions than lens design. Sometimes this lens surprises by the quality of its images, but more often it's trying to peer through haze, dust and mixing air. Performance B/A-.
About the author
I am a professional photographer based in the UK. For my personal work I use a full frame Canon DSLRs, with a smaller chip model as back up.
Pentacon 300mm f/4 People comment on how heavy this lens is but there are times when the desire for quality is paramount. It shows flare around bright highlights wide open but is fantastic at f/8. Designed to cover medium format film, it consequently performs well across the 35mm frame. Performance: A/A-.
A special word on Pentax lenses
Pentax have made an awful lot of very good quality lenses. The most desirable, which tend to be the fastest, fetch the higher prices. So getting hold of say, the 50mm f/1.8 or the 135mm f/3.5 is going to be a lot easier and cheaper than the f/1.4 and f/2.5 versions, and still be very good lenses. Some of the less expensive lenses have less sophisticated coatings, but are just as sharp and still very good. In short, you can usually trust them to perform.
Lenses with large protruding rear elements
A number of lenses that I've listed prevent normal operation of the mirror on a Canon 5d Mk2, and require special working methods. Shooting in Live View, the mirror must be raised with the lens wound forward, and the lens must be returned to this position before closing Live View. Of course, Live View is your best bet for achieving accurate focus, but if you don't like the sound of this, avoid the Helios lenses, the Takumar standards, the Domiplan. Specific information is available elsewhere on the web.